Recent Words

When British writer Elizabeth David’s A Book of Mediterranean Food was published in 1950, it introduced much of the English-speaking world to the concepts of Mediterranean cuisine. In the book’s introduction, David defined the region as “those blessed lands of sun and sea and olive trees.” Olives, wheat and grapes, considered the triad of the cuisine, yield the oil, bread and wine that many of us associate with Mediterranean fare…

“It’s all about the grind.” So says Lauran Weiner, owner of Big Al’s Smokehouse BBQ in Dallas, And though we’re talking about the simple salt and pepper rub that Big Al’s uses on its brisket, we could just as easily be reflecting on the work that Weiner and her team do to keep her family’s barbecue churning along as they approach 50 years in business…

Food has the power to stir our memories and help us create new ones. Naturally, chefs and restaurant owners tap into their memories as well when opening a restaurant. When we first read of Fiatto, the casual Italian spot that opened in the spring of 2022 in the West Village, we learned that the kitchen would be headed up by executive chef Kylil Henson…